Thursday, 10 July 2014

UK tie maker - Dan

Dan lives in Hadleigh, and he has invited me to visit him to see how he makes ties professionally (right).  He has also given me a link to  a London supplier of tie interlining material (left). 

He has been so helpful already with descriptions of how he makes ties.

craftivism

I hosted my first craftivism event yesterday at my home.  Eight people came and we discussed feminism.  It was a lively discussion which covered topics such as the responsibility/cost of childcare, maternity provision, Page 3, workplace discrimination, single mothers, wolf whistles from builders and whether we wnted the door held open for us by men.

We didn't agree about everything but we did agree that
  •  'personism' would be a better way forward because it doesn't set up barriers
  • education is the key to mutual understanding and solutions
  • that feminism had changed the lives of women over the last three generations  - for the better
  • that women in this country are fortunate
  • the expectation and necessity for women to work while heavily pregnant and as mothers
  • that both men and women suffered under gender expectations of society.
Everyone found the event relaxing, friendly and thought provoking.  Comments included 'soothed by the sewing', 'conversation became more gentle when we started sewing', 'worried that people might be offended by opinions'.

However, we were all women of a similar age (I had invited men but they declined both by the topic and the sewing) and  I found that some women had embroidered words or sayings that didn't relate to the topic so I'm not sure they grasped the concept.

Consequently, I am going to offer two more events.  One in a public place (I have approached the Forum) and another in my home.  I will emphasise the concept of stitching something as a reminder of the conversation.

Also I am going to email a thank you and a summary of the event to those who attended and ask them to send it to their younger female relative (eg daughters, neices etc) to ask if they had anything to add.

Tuesday, 8 July 2014

I've cut out around 25 ties now, ready for interlining, hand sewing and embellishing with feminist text.

The tie on the right is made from winceyette which I have dyed charcoal, then used discharge paste ready for re-dying.

I have been trying to find a UK tie manufacturer so that I can see the materials and processes used in professional tie making.  Vanners in Sudbury weave silk and manufacture ties but they do not offer factory tours (their ties are made in Essex and, again, tours are not available - for insurance reasons).

I have found a tie maker in Suffolk - VaVa Neckwear - who sells through Amazon, Etsy and Notonthehighstreet.  He does not seem to have a website but I have messaged his via Amazon and await his response.




Saturday, 5 July 2014

fashion, art, design


This week I was asked whether I had consulted WGSN about the design of my ties this week, I hadn't.  I justified this by explaining that my designs are based on a concept and that I am not making a 'fashion' item.  This set me off thinking about the distinctions between textile design, fashion and fine art.  For the final show I am planning to hang twenty five ties - each designed within the notion of feminism and communication technology (elecronic imagery) plus text.  If my work had been made under the heading of fine art it would have been a sort of installation, if it had been fashion it would have been a collection (with consideration given to fashion forecasters), however - it is textile design. I put in mind of this quotation 'It is my personal opinion that fabric design rightfully belongs in the category of the Fine Arts, ...as an art, it is just as important as good architecture, and certainly is more closely associated with out everyday living thatn are paintings.' Ruth Reeves, 1946 (quoted in Raynor, Chamberlain & Stapleton (2012), Textile Design Artists' Textiles 1940-1976,Antinques Collectors' Club Ltd, Woodbridge, UK.

I have made some changes to my designs (colour and scale)and had them digitally reprinted on silk twill, wool twill and juniper linen.

Thursday, 3 July 2014

Paul Smith ties



 

 Today I examined a selection of Paul Smith ties.

The silk tie on the left featured a contrasting lining with a matching keeper.



 The tactile tie on the right is made from a brushed cashmere/silk mix fabric.






 This shell of this silk tie (left and above) uses a spotted textile in two print sizes and again features a contrast lining and keeper.